The Volcano and Fortresses of Vayots Dzor

Vayots Dzor is more than Areni and Noravank. Turn off the main road and a completely different Armenia begins: abandoned fortresses, monasteries in the mountains, volcanic craters, deep gorges and roads that ordinary tourist vehicles simply cannot handle. This route was created precisely to introduce you to that Vayots Dzor.

In a single day we combine a 14th-century monastery, a medieval fortress, an extinct volcano over 2,500 metres high, a little-known monastic complex and the Gerger Reservoir. And most of the experience begins exactly where the asphalt ends.

After an early departure from Yerevan we head to Vayots Dzor. The first major stop is Spitakavor, a white monastery in the mountains, about 7 km north of the village of Vernashen. Its name, meaning white, comes from the pale stone the church is built of. The main church, Surb Astvatsatsin, was founded by Prince Eachi Proshyan, and after his death construction was completed by his son Amir Hasan II. The church was finished in 1321.

In the Middle Ages Spitakavor was an important spiritual, cultural and educational centre of Vayots Dzor. After the famous University of Gladzor ceased to function, the monastery carried on its traditions of learning and manuscript copying. The grave of Garegin Nzhdeh is also here. But Spitakavor impresses with more than its history. The monastery stands high in the mountains, far from villages and the main tourist roads, and the drive to it is already part of our jeep adventure.

The next stop is Proshaberd, a fortress above the gorges, also known as Boloraberd. The medieval fortress sits on a high mountain spur not far from Spitakavor. Its main fortifications date to the 13th century and are linked to the princely Proshyan family. The fortress held a strategic position, controlling the surrounding valleys and mountain roads. Sections of its massive basalt walls and towers survive, and the preserved part of its ancient water-supply system is especially interesting. Proshaberd offers wide panoramas of Vayots Dzor, and there is time here for a walk and photos.

After the historical part we continue in 4×4 off-road vehicles, and the real off-road begins. Depending on the season, the road may include rocky stretches, dirt tracks, ruts, steep climbs and descents, mud after rain, uneven volcanic terrain and a lot of shaking. Along the way we stop at safe viewpoints.

The next big highlight of the journey is Vayots Sar, an extinct volcano rising to about 2,586 metres above sea level, northwest of the village of Gerger. Its defining feature is a well-formed volcanic crater about 125 metres deep. We drive the off-roaders as close as possible to an accessible and safe point, followed by a short walk across the volcanic landscape. Armenia's geological history feels especially tangible here: instead of medieval walls, we are looking at traces of the processes that shaped the terrain of Vayots Dzor long before humans appeared.

In good weather the volcano opens up wide views over the surrounding mountains and valleys. There is time for a walk, a rest, photos and panoramic shots. How high we can go depends on the road conditions and the weather.

After the volcano we head to another little-known monument of Vayots Dzor, Surb Sion, a forgotten monastic complex among the gorges near the village of Gerger. It lies about a kilometre northeast of the village on a small rocky rise surrounded by gorges. The complex includes two churches, a chapel, the remains of monastic buildings and a cemetery. Its oldest church is Surb Sion; the exact date of construction is unknown, but a surviving inscription records repairs in the 13th century. Next to it stands the church of Surb Astvatsatsin, built in 1283 by Prince Vahram Shahurnetsi. Medieval khachkars and gravestones survive in the courtyard. The site is almost entirely off the mass-tourism trail, so the atmosphere is completely different: silence, mountains and ancient architecture without the tourist bustle.

The last natural stop of the trip is the Gerger Reservoir, on the Gerger River at about 1,430 metres above sea level. After a full mountain and history programme, we make a final panoramic stop here, a good place to rest and take photos before heading back to Yerevan. Once the programme is over we return, arriving at approximately 19:30–20:30. The actual time depends on mountain road conditions, the weather, traffic and the pace of the group.

This route is especially suited to those who want to see an unusual Vayots Dzor, far beyond the classic Areni–Noravank route. We recommend it to lovers of jeep adventures, history, medieval fortresses, monasteries, volcanic landscapes, mountains, panoramic views, photography and little-known corners of Armenia. No special mountaineering experience is needed, but be prepared for a long day on the road, off-road driving and some light walking.