Wild Lori — Arevatsag Gorge

Lori is more than Haghpat, Sanahin and the well-known tourist routes. Beyond the main roads a completely different northern Armenia begins: deep gorges, rivers, mountain villages, ancient monasteries and tracks best tackled in off-road vehicles. This two-day route was designed precisely to let you see wild Lori without rushing.

Day 1. In the morning we leave Yerevan and head north. As we approach Lori the landscape gradually changes: the dry central regions give way to green mountains, forests, deep river valleys and gorges. Stops for rest and photos are planned along the way.

The first big nature stretch of the trip is around the Dzoraget River, one of the main tributaries of the Debed. The Dzoraget cuts through Lori's mountainous terrain, carving a deep and scenic gorge; in places the canyon is several hundred metres deep. We stop at safe viewpoints overlooking the river and the surrounding mountains.

Then the real jeep part of the journey begins. We switch to prepared 4×4 vehicles and set off along Lori's mountain tracks, where the usual tourist roads end. Depending on the season we may meet rocky sections, dirt roads, ruts, mud after rain, climbs and descents, narrow mountain stretches and a lot of shaking. The road itself becomes part of the adventure.

Tucked among the mountains and the gorge is one of the most atmospheric monuments of the route, Khnevank Monastery. The main church of the complex dates to the 7th century. In the 12th century the monastery was restored and rebuilt, and a historical inscription relating to the restoration of 1154 has survived. But Khnevank impresses with more than its architecture: it stands almost alone in the mountains near the Dzoraget, and it is precisely its distance from the main tourist roads that has preserved its special atmosphere. There is time for a guided visit, a walk and photos.

After Khnevank we continue along the mountain route towards Arevatsag. The road runs through one of the most beautiful natural areas of Lori, and depending on its condition we stop at viewpoints. The main natural highlight of the first day is Arevatsag Gorge. The name Arevatsag means "sunrise". Here green mountains surround the Dzoraget valley and there is almost no tourist infrastructure. This is the Lori you simply cannot feel on an ordinary coach excursion.

One of the symbols of the Arevatsag gorge is the unusual Tsitskar Rock. It rises above the valley and stands out clearly against the green slopes around it. There is time for a walk, a rest and photos. In spring and early summer the area is especially green, while in autumn Lori changes its colours completely and the route looks like a different place.

After the jeep programme we head to our accommodation and check in to a hotel or guesthouse in Lori. The evening is for rest and free time. One night's accommodation is included in the tour price.

Day 2. After breakfast and getting ready we begin the second day. Today the programme turns more historical and introduces us to the ancient monuments of Lori. We drive to the small historic village of Ardvi, one of those places in Armenia where history, local legends and nature are practically inseparable. Ardvi is linked to the name of the great 8th-century Armenian Catholicos Hovhannes Odznetsi.

We visit Srbanes Monastery, also known as the Monastery of Surb Hovhannes. The complex includes two small churches, a bell tower, khachkars and other historic structures. It is the burial place of Hovhannes Odznetsi, the theologian, thinker and lawgiver who held the throne of Catholicos of All Armenians in the 8th century. The site is small but very atmospheric. Ardvi also has an interesting link to Armenian cinema: some scenes of Sergei Parajanov's famous film The Color of Pomegranates were shot here.

The next unusual stop is the natural spring of Odzi Port, whose name means "the snake's navel". A local legend ties this place to Saint Hovhannes Odznetsi and a giant snake: according to tradition, the saint turned the snake to stone with the power of the sign of the cross. Locals have long come here for water. We make a short stop and continue the journey.

One of the main historical highlights of the second day is Odzun. The Odzun basilica is one of the most significant early medieval Christian monuments in Armenia, with the main building usually dated to the 6th–7th centuries. Of particular interest is the rare stone memorial monument standing beside it. The guide will tell you about the church's architecture, the history of the Odzun monastic centre and the role of this land in the history of medieval Armenia. After the programme there is time for rest and a meal, and then we head back to Yerevan, arriving approximately in the evening of the second day.

This route is made for travellers who want to see Lori in more depth than a standard sightseeing programme allows. It is especially suited to lovers of jeep trips, wild nature, gorges, mountain rivers, medieval history, little-known monasteries, photography and unhurried two-day journeys. No special mountain or climbing experience is required.