Jeep Tour: Fortresses of Vayots Dzor and the Khorbatekh Geyser

On this journey we bring together three completely different sides of Vayots Dzor: a medieval fortress atop a mountain ridge, a monastery hidden away among the mountains, and an unusual natural mineral spring that periodically bursts up out of the ground. But between these points lies the most interesting part — the real mountain roads of Vayots Dzor, which we travel by 4×4 off-road vehicle.

In the morning we leave Yerevan and head south. After the Ararat valley the landscape gradually changes — the mountains of Vayots Dzor begin, one of the country's most beautiful and historically rich regions. We continue on toward Yeghegis and Artabuynk. Here the ordinary part of the journey ends and our mountain route begins.

We switch to 4×4 off-road vehicles. Ahead lie dirt and rocky roads, climbs up mountain slopes and panoramic stretches above the Yeghegis valley. Depending on the weather the road can be dry and dusty or, on the contrary, muddy and slippery, so the route of each trip is assessed according to actual conditions.

The first major point on the route is Smbataberd. The fortress sits on a high mountain ridge between the Yeghegis and Artabuynk valleys, and its position was no accident. On several sides the fortress is protected by natural steep slopes, while its massive walls made it one of the serious defensive strongholds of medieval Vayots Dzor. The history of fortifications at this site goes back to the early Middle Ages, and Smbataberd played a particularly important role approximately in the 10th–13th centuries.

Considerable stretches of the defensive walls and towers survive to this day — the total length of the fortifications was about a kilometer. Inside stood defensive and utility structures, water reservoirs and other buildings needed for the life of the garrison. The fortress's water-supply system is of particular interest: for a medieval fortress that an enemy could besiege for a long time, having its own water source was a matter of survival.

But Smbataberd impresses with more than just history. From the fortress walls there are magnificent views of the mountains of Vayots Dzor, the Yeghegis valley and the surrounding gorges. Here we leave time for a tour, a walk, photographs and a short rest, after which we return to the vehicles and continue the route.

The next point is Tsakhats Kar Monastery. It stands high above the Yeghegis valley, far from major roads and settlements, and it is precisely this remoteness that makes the place special. There is no urban bustle and no large tourist flow here — only mountains, wind and medieval stones around.

The monastery complex mostly dates to the 10th–11th centuries, and one of its most important parts was built in the 11th century. Here churches, khachkars, and the remains of monastery buildings and an old cemetery have survived; the stone reliefs and decorative elements are especially interesting. Tsakhats Kar was not simply a place of prayer — monastic complexes like this one were important spiritual and cultural centers of medieval Armenia.

After Tsakhats Kar we continue our journey across Vayots Dzor. The road runs through open mountain terrain, and depending on the season you can see completely different landscapes here: bright green in spring, golden mountain slopes in summer, deep yellow and reddish shades in autumn. Along the way we stop at the most beautiful panoramic points.

Next we head toward the small mountain village of Khorbatekh. It lies in the valley of the Artabuyn River, at an altitude of about 1,880 meters above sea level, but our destination is not the village itself. Not far from it, amid open mountain terrain, is an unusual natural mineral spring.

The site is known as the Khorbatekh geyser. It is actually a natural mineral spring saturated with gases: water rises up out of the ground and periodically produces noticeable bursts. Over a long time the minerals have colored the ground around the spring in unusual shades — from white and ochre to reddish-brown. Against the open mountains of Vayots Dzor the site looks quite extraordinary.

A dirt road leads to the spring. In dry weather the main stretch can be covered by off-road vehicle, but after rain the ground becomes considerably more slippery and muddy. The vehicles drive up to the safest accessible point, and we cover the last short stretch on foot across a mountain meadow.

Near the spring we leave time for photographs and to get acquainted with this natural feature. It's important to remember that this is a wild natural spring, not an equipped tourist facility: there is no full infrastructure here, and the surface right next to where the mineral water emerges can be wet and slippery. That's why it's necessary to follow the guide's instructions and not get too close to the point where the water bursts out.

After Khorbatekh we begin the journey back. We drive the vehicles out of the mountain section of the route, then continue on to Yerevan. The approximate return time is around 19:00–20:00.

This route is especially suited to those who want to combine a genuine jeep tour, medieval history, fortresses, monasteries, wild nature, unusual natural sites, mountain panoramas and photography. No special climbing preparation is required, and the walking involved is moderate.