Fortresses of Vayots Dzor and the Khorbategh Geyser

On this trip we bring together three completely different sides of Vayots Dzor: a medieval fortress on top of a mountain ridge, a monastery lost among the mountains, and an unusual natural mineral spring that periodically shoots water up from the ground. But the most interesting part lies between these stops: the real mountain roads of Vayots Dzor, which we travel in 4×4 off-road vehicles.

In the morning we leave Yerevan and head to the south of Armenia. After the Ararat Valley the landscape gradually changes and the mountains of Vayots Dzor begin — one of the most beautiful and historically rich regions of the country. We continue towards Yeghegis and Artabuynk. This is where the ordinary part of the journey ends and our mountain route begins: we switch to 4×4 vehicles. Ahead lie dirt and rocky tracks, climbs up mountain slopes and panoramic stretches above the Yeghegis valley. Depending on the weather the road can be dry and dusty or, on the contrary, muddy and slippery, so the route of every trip is assessed against the actual conditions.

The first major stop is Smbataberd. The fortress stands on a high mountain ridge between the Yeghegis and Artabuynk valleys. Its position was chosen for a reason: on several sides the fortress is protected by natural steep slopes, and its massive walls made it one of the serious defensive strongholds of medieval Vayots Dzor. The history of fortifications here goes back to the early Middle Ages, and Smbataberd played an especially important role roughly in the 10th–13th centuries.

Substantial sections of the defensive walls and towers survive to this day. The fortifications stretched for about a kilometre in total. Inside were defensive and utility buildings, water reservoirs and other structures the garrison needed to live. The fortress's water supply system is of particular interest: for a medieval fortress that an enemy could besiege for a long time, having its own water source was a matter of survival. But Smbataberd impresses with more than its history. From the walls there are superb views of the mountains of Vayots Dzor, the Yeghegis valley and the surrounding gorges. We leave time here for a guided tour, a walk, photos and a short rest, then return to the vehicles and continue the route.

The next stop is Tsakhats Kar monastery. It sits high above the Yeghegis valley, far from main roads and villages. It is precisely this remoteness that makes the place special: there is no city bustle and no large flow of tourists, only mountains, wind and medieval stones all around.

The monastery complex dates mainly from the 10th–11th centuries, and one of its most important parts was built in the 11th century. Churches, khachkars and the remains of monastic buildings and an old cemetery have survived. The stone reliefs and decorative details are especially interesting. Tsakhats Kar was more than a place of prayer — monastic complexes like this were important spiritual and cultural centres of medieval Armenia.

After Tsakhats Kar we continue our journey through Vayots Dzor. The road crosses open mountain country, and depending on the season you can see completely different landscapes here: bright green in spring, golden slopes in summer, deep yellow and reddish tones in autumn. Along the way we stop at the most beautiful viewpoints.

Next we head towards the small mountain village of Khorbategh, which lies in the valley of the Artabuyn river at about 1,880 metres above sea level. Our goal, however, is not the village itself: not far from it, in open mountain terrain, is an unusual natural mineral spring known as the Khorbategh geyser. In fact it is a natural gas-charged mineral spring. The water comes up from underground and periodically produces noticeable bursts. Over a long time the minerals have stained the ground around the spring in unusual colours, from white and ochre to reddish brown. Against the open mountains of Vayots Dzor the place looks truly extraordinary.

A dirt road leads to the spring. In dry weather the main section can be driven in the off-road vehicles, while after rain the ground becomes much more slippery and muddy. The vehicles drive up to the closest point that is safely accessible, and we cover the last short stretch on foot across a mountain meadow. At the spring we leave time for photos and for getting to know this natural site. Keep in mind that this is a wild natural spring, not an equipped tourist facility, and there is no proper infrastructure here. The ground right next to where the mineral water comes out can be wet and slippery, so please follow the guide's instructions and do not go too close to where the water bursts out.

After Khorbategh we start the way back: the vehicles take us down from the mountain section of the route, and then we continue to Yerevan. We expect to be back at around 19:00–20:00.

The route is especially suited to those who want to combine a real jeep tour, medieval history, fortresses, monasteries, wild nature, unusual natural sites, mountain panoramas and photography. No special mountaineering skills are required, and the amount of walking is moderate.